Scotland 2008 -- It is only a short trip to cross the sound to Skye, but there is a strong tiderace in the middle. In the old days drovers let the cattle swim across at even tide when the current was least strong, but they still must have lost a few beast at each crossing. At least this is what Ruaraigh told me. Ruaraidh smoked a lot and coughed a lot too. He had a pouch of horrible smelling tabacco and rolled his own ciggies. When I came near he extinguished the cigarette and kept the stump for later. This man is like out of a book by Lilian Beckwith for sure.

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